Ocana

Sunday – Curves, Cliffs, and Calanques Link to heading

Time to say goodbye to our Airbnb in Corbara – the next leg of our journey begins. Destination: Ocana. But before we head into the mountains, there’s a highlight waiting on the west coast: a boat tour from Porto. However, the day starts off with a bit of a letdown – a call just before departure makes us doubt: the tour might be cancelled, we were the only ones booked. Still, we hit the road. The drive takes us through dramatic landscapes: steep cliffs, narrow roads, towering mountains, and the deep blue sea appearing again and again. Of course, a strong coffee along the way is a must – it’s practically a ritual by now.

Somewhere around 10,000 curves later, we reach Porto. Straight to the info booth – and the disappointment is confirmed: the tour is cancelled. But luck is on our side. After a few calls, some discussion, and the very helpful support of the original provider, we manage to snag a spot on another boat. No time to lose – hop on, off we go!

We leave Porto on a small, fast boat. Just a few minutes in, we glide past Ficaghjola – a tiny bay straight out of a postcard: turquoise water, golden rocks, total picture-book charm. Then come the Calanques de Piana. Red, otherworldly rock formations jutting straight from the sea into the sky – breathtaking. Onward to Capo Rosso, where we even enter some mysterious sea caves. It feels like a live-action adventure film.

On the way from Capo Rosso to Scandola, we get a magical surprise: dolphins! They appear right next to the boat, graceful and playful. We pause and watch them for a while – how they glide through the waves and pop up again and again, like they’re greeting us. Pure goosebumps. Next stop: the Scandola Nature Reserve – a UNESCO World Heritage site, and rightly so. Jagged cliffs, glowing water, dramatic contrasts everywhere.

Back on land, it’s already been an overwhelming day – but it’s not over yet. There’s still a long drive ahead of us, including what feels like another 10,000 curves through the mountains. Over narrow roads, steep climbs, and winding descents, we slowly approach our next destination: the little mountain village of Ocana. Upon arrival, the landscape is simply majestic. But us? We’re in desperate need of food – and a serious dose of relaxation.

Monday – Clouds, Calm, and Absolutely Nothing Link to heading

After yesterday’s long and eventful day, today is officially: chill mode. Even the weather seems to agree – for the first time this trip, it’s properly overcast. Perfect for a day of doing “nothing.”

Since we’ve run out of breakfast supplies, we hop in the car and drive to the nearest open bakery – “only” about 20 minutes away. Croissants, baguette, maybe something sweet – the perfect start to a lazy day. On the way back, we pick up groceries too, then it’s back to our Airbnb.

And then? Chilling. Napping. Reading. More chilling. Some stretching on the balcony. Even more chilling. A day like a deep breath – no plans, no rush, no obligations. Just doing nothing – sometimes that’s exactly what you need.

Tuesday – Ajaccio calling Link to heading

Today’s plan: a day trip to Ajaccio. So we hop in the car and head off – hoping for a miracle parking spot right in the capital. The first challenge of the day comes quickly: finding parking. After a few loops through town, some nervous glances at semi-legally parked cars, and several “Oh look, there’s one! – wait, nope…” moments, we finally score a spot. Phew!

Now the day can really begin – we stroll over to the Marché d’Ajaccio, a small market full of Corsican delights: cheese, sausage, olives, pastries, jams, and more. Of course, we stock up. And since it’s so cozy, we grab a few souvenirs – edible and otherwise.

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Next stop: Maison Bonaparte. But first, we have to bridge the lunch break – which means: browsing shops, a bit of shopping, a little wandering through the old town.

Finally, it’s time: we enter Napoleon Bonaparte’s birthplace – one of the most famous and controversial figures in world history. Born in 1769 right here in this house in Ajaccio, he was the second of eight children. The Bonaparte family was of Corsican-Italian origin and part of the island’s minor nobility. Napoleon spent his early years on Corsica before going to France for military training. What followed is history: he rose at lightning speed, became a general, then First Consul – and finally, in 1804, Emperor of the French. His campaigns changed Europe, and his ambition was legendary. Despite all the wars, he also left lasting reforms, like the Civil Code – the “Code Napoléon” – which still influences many European legal systems today. The museum shares insights into his family, career, and childhood – fascinating how such a small place could be the starting point of such a massive legacy.

To wrap up the day, we treat ourselves to a late lunch before heading back and enjoying a quiet evening at the Airbnb.