São Miguel

Tuesday - Arrival on São Miguel Link to heading

Saying goodbye in Switzerland is over faster than expected. Then come the train to Zurich, check-in, security, and waiting. The flight starts delayed, gets delayed some more, and by the time I change planes it is clear: today the chaos is coming along for the ride.

On the plane, thankfully, it is not too bad. I watch films, think a bit too much about my life, and try to ease into travel mode. Right before landing, the stress comes back because the connection suddenly looks very tight. In the end, it is less dramatic than feared, partly because the next flight is delayed too. Sometimes timing works in my favor, even if only by accident.

Once I arrive in Ponta Delgada, I choose movement instead of a taxi and walk from the airport to the hostel in about an hour. I end up at A Bico Hostel and am properly on São Miguel.

With a roof over my head, the first goal is done. The second is easier: food. On the island it is only around 8 PM, but my body is still on Swiss time. So I look for a restaurant near the hostel. It is loud, warm, and full, exactly the kind of place that can be either perfect or annoying after a long travel day. Luckily, it is perfect: after a short wait, the food arrives, and with every bite the day gets calmer.

There is Bifana no prato and, for dessert, creme brulee. By then the last bit of arrival stress is finally gone.

Wednesday - Diving In Link to heading

In the morning I wake up early and look for coffee first. Breakfast follows, and then comes my personal highlight of the first few days: finally diving again.

The first dive takes us to an old US cargo ship. We see moray eels, lots of fish, flounders, an octopus, and a curious triggerfish during the safety stop. The second dive is at a large arch that we swim through. Again there are lots of fish, a huge lobster, sea cucumbers, and all kinds of little things that become fascinating underwater.

We dive with Best Spot Diving at Dori Wreck and Willy’s Wonder.

After the dive, my battery is pretty much empty. A burger later, and after picking up a few groceries for the next days, I head back to the hostel and do very little for the rest of the day. My body is tired, my head nicely quiet.

Thursday - Green São Miguel Link to heading

The morning starts with breakfast at the hostel before I head to the botanical garden. I am still a bit off, but the calm helps immediately. Trees, flowers, and a few surprisingly relaxed frogs in the pond everywhere. Exactly the kind of place that makes you slow down automatically.

Then I continue to the pineapple farm. There I learn how Azorean pineapples are grown and, more importantly, how they taste: very good.

The rest of the day is deliberately uneventful: lunch, a siesta, a walk, a phone call, a bit more wandering, a shower, and dinner. Not every travel day needs a big program. Sometimes it is enough just to arrive.

Friday - With Emir by the Water Link to heading

In the morning I have breakfast with other people from the hostel. I do not really have a plan, so I spontaneously join Emir. We meet over breakfast, and I simply tag along on his plan.

We wait about half an hour for the bus before the ride begins. It is, let us say, lively. In Furnas, we first walk along the street and then nicely along the lake to a place with hot springs. There you can see how traditional stews are cooked directly in the springs.

Instead of continuing leisurely along the lake, we choose a park. A stream leads us steadily uphill, past small waterfalls and viewpoints. At the top, a beautiful waterfall is waiting. We sit down on a large rock at its base and stay there for quite a while, simply sitting, watching, and listening. One of those pauses where you do not do much and yet are exactly in the right place.

Eventually we realize it is time for lunch. Back in the village, I try the traditional stew with all kinds of meat, potatoes, and cabbage. It is Cozido das Furnas.

We would like to go to the thermal baths afterward, but time is running out and the sun is already quite warm. So we take the bus back. That is the moment when the island public-transport universe briefly decides to work against us: the first bus does not stop at our stop, and the second, against the timetable, does not go back to Ponta Delgada. Together with other stranded travelers, we organize a taxi. Instead of leaving at 4:10 PM by bus, we are finally moving again at 6:30 PM by taxi.

A little annoyed, but with one more story in the bag, I get back to the hostel. After a refreshing shower, we go with other people from the hostel to a pizzeria and later for a beer at a bar. The day ends much better than it went in the middle.

Saturday - West Coast, Rain, and Black Sand Link to heading

After breakfast it is time to pack and check out. Having learned from yesterday, I spontaneously book a car. The plan is to head to the west coast of São Miguel, first to Ponta da Ferraria, where warm natural pools are supposed to wait along the coast.

On the way it starts raining, and I get properly wet even while walking around and looking. The volcanic rock and steep cliffs still look stunning. But when I put my foot in the water, the excitement quickly fades: not exactly warm and cozy. With that kind of surf, there is not much of a relaxed swim left.

So back in the car and on to the next stop. This time it is a black sand beach. That is the moment it becomes clear that somebody was not prepared for wet weather. Sand sticks between my toes, the water washes over my feet, and my swimming motivation does not go much further than that.

For lunch I try a local specialty: octopus. It is okay, but probably not my new favorite food.

Satisfied, I head to Sete Cidades, hoping to catch at least something. The rain hangs on there too, so first comes cake and coffee. In the end, I drive on anyway, even if the view ends up in the “could be better” category.

Then I head back, return the car, and get driven to the airport. Everything goes smoothly, and I wait there for my flight to Pico.